Henderson 30 Owners Manual

OWNERS MANUAL Henderson 30

ONE Introduction

TWO Specifications

THREE Features
1 - VARA System
2 - CRO Unit
3 - Carbon Fiber Mast
4 - Carbon Fiber Bow Pole

FOUR Inventory Inspection
1 - Standing Rigging
2 - Running Rigging
3 - Deck Hardware
4 - Standard Equipment
5 - Notes

FIVE Preparation Prior to Mast Raising
1 - Installation of Spreaders
2 - Installation of Halyards
3 - Installation of Standing Rigging and Runners
4 - Spreader Tip Procedure
5 - Installation of Backstay Whip
6 - Notes

SIX Installation of Loose Deck Hardware
1 - Halyard Blocks
2 - Spinnaker Sheet Blocks
3 - Runner Blocks
4 - Boom Vang Assembly
5 - Lifelines
6 - Miscellaneous
7 - Notes

SEVEN Raising the Mast
1 - Preparation
2 - Mast Raising Steps
3 - Attachment of Standing Rigging
4 - Under Deck Mast Retainer
5 - Tuff Luff Installation
6 - Notes

EIGHT Tuning the Rig
1 - Preparation
2 - Suggested Rake and Tension
3 - Tensioning Procedure
4 - Notes

NINE Running Rigging Installation
1 - Asymmetrical Tack Line
2 - Genoa Lead Controls
3 - Main Traveler Controls
4 - Mainsheet System
5 - Runner Controls
6 - Backstay Assemblies
7 - Cunningham Assembly
8 - Boom Vang Assembly
9 - Notes

TEN Ready to Launch
1 - Hoist Launch
Preparation and Procedure
Notes
2 - Ramp Launch
Preparation and Procedure
Notes

ELEVEN Lowering the Keel
1 - Preparation and Assembly
2 - Procedure
Hoist launch
Ramp Launch
3 - Securing
4 - Notes
TWELVE Raising the Keel
1 - Preparation
2 - Winch Grinders Only
3 - Securing the Keel Clamshells
4 - Notes

THIRTEEN Operation of the VARA Assembly
1 - Vertical Adjustment
2 - Adjusting Tip Sweep
3 - Brake System

FOURTEEN Engine Operation
1 - Raising and Lowering the Engine
2 - Gear Shift and Throttle Controls
3 - Starting the Engine
4 - Notes

FIFTEEN Trailering and Road Tips
1 - Securing the H-30
2 - Suggested Gear Placement
3 - Precautionary Tips
4 - Notes

SIXTEEN Warranty's
1 - Builder
2 - Hardware
3 - Engine
4 - Miscellaneous

Inserts:
Class Rules
Target Speeds

Contacts:
SOCA Sailboats - Paul Amon
Building 13, Fernandes Industrial Center,
Eastern Main Road, Laventille,
Trinidad, West Indies.
Phone: 868-627-0092
Fax: 868-627-0001
E Mail: socasail@wow.net
Henderson Yacht Design - Glenn Henderson
415 Toledo Way NE
St. Petersburg,
FL 33704.
Phone: 813-827-4732
Fax: 813-894-5031
E Mail: henwins@sprynet.com

North American Sales - Doug Fisher or Eric Macklin
957 North Lime Avenue,
Sarasota,
FL 34237.
Phone: 941-906-1147
Fax: 941-955-4758
E Mail: emacklin@m8.sprynet.com

This manual was made exclusively for:
Owner:
Henderson 30 - Hull # 117

ONE - INTRODUCTION
We want to say, CONGRATULATIONS!, on the purchase of your new Henderson 30. The H-30 is a forerunner in leading edge design, out distances the competition in overall performance, and buries the sport boat genre in state-of-the-art innovations. Never has one boat grasped so much, yet been so elegantly simple.
This Owner's Manual will soothe the new boat butterflies as you learn to finalize the assembly and installation of the small parts. An exciting process because of your involvement in learning the intricacies of your new investment. We have tried our best to organize this Manual to point out the same procedures as we have learned them in the past with our preparation of previous boat's.
Again, Congratulations. Please let this Manual help you and your crew to enjoy your new Henderson 30 and the many victories you are sure to have.

SOCA Sailboats Limited.
TWO - SPECIFICATIONS
LOA 30.84' I 37.11'
LWL 27.75' J 11.04'
BEAM 9.84' P 38.42'
DRAFT 7.00' down / 1.75' up E 14.40'
DISPLACEMENT 3850# ISP 42.25'
BALLAST 1750# BSL 17.75'
Hull and Deck - E glass biaxial laminates and Vinylester resins over PVC closed cell cores.
Interior Components - As hull and deck.
Floor Boards - As hull and deck.
Mast, Rudder and Bow Pole - Carbon Fiber and epoxy resin.
Standing Rigging - 1X19 Dyform s/s wire (durable and low stretch, ideal for trailering).
Running Rigging - A mix of Spectra, Technora and Ultra low stretch lines.
Hardware - Predominantly Harken.
Stanchions and Lifelines - s/s Bow and Stern rails, s/s Tapered Stanchions with support
legs and s/s Double Life Lines.

THREE - FEATURES
1 - VARA System.
The VARA System (Variable Aspect Rudder Assembly) was developed specifically for the Henderson 30. State-of-the-art in design, remarkable in execution and a performance enhancement system that will increase boat speed.
The VARA System includes an ultra high-aspect, carbon fiber rudder blade that slides vertically into a rotating bearing housed in a tube between the cockpit floor and bottom of the hull. The drum houses two sets of custom build races each containing 130 3/8" delrin balls. The design eliminates the need for a rudder post, resulting in a stronger, lighter and narrower rudder blade. The turbulence at the intersection of the hull and the blade is substantially reduced.
The VARA System allows adjustment in balance, control and rudder position. Vertical adjustment on certain points of sail will reduce drag and increase boat speed. In light air you have the ability to sweep the rudder tip aft, giving the helm more "feel". In heavy air the tip can be swept forward, producing "finger tip" control that will satisfy the most demanding professional.

2 - CRO Unit.
The CRO Unit (Contained Retractable Outboard) will make your time under power more safe and convenient while reducing the costs associated with an inboard engine.
Located behind the keel and sealed from the interior of the boat, the CRO Unit increases structural integrity of the hull and deck. A convenient hatch in the cockpit bridge deck allows easy access for raising and lowering unit into the water. The 9.9 hp engine has a 3 blade prop for high torque and easily pushes the H-30 at hull speed. A built-in fuel tank, external deck fill, automatic blower ventilation, remote shift/throttle controls, and battery for electric start are included. These combined features allow the CRO to operate like an inboard.

3 - Carbon Fiber Mast.
The Carbon Fiber mast used on the H-30 was selected for its, lightness and strength. The weight savings reduce healing moment and just as importantly decrease pitching moment.
The manufacturer, Omohundro has been building composite structures since 1948 and carbon masts since 1988.
Excluding gooseneck and boom vang attachments your mast is made completely from carbon fiber. Masthead crane, spreaders and spreader bars are tooled from carbon fiber. Weight savings over aluminum is approximately 35%, yet there is increased stiffness.

4 - Carbon Fiber Bow Pole.
The bow pole on the H-30 is also carbon fiber and utilizes the same advanced techniques in construction as your mast. Several features in the operation and use of the articulating bow pole set the H-30 aside from all others. The freedom of the wide arc broadens down wind sailing angles.
All controls of the bow pole are operated from the safety of the cockpit. Pole launch line is located on the port side of the cockpit wall and retrieve line is on the starboard side. The port and starboard articulator controls which allow the pole to swing from side to side almost 32 degrees (more than any other boat sport boat) are also located here.
In addition, your bow pole is fitted with a cover reducing water intake while pole is in retrieved position. The interior bow area includes a molded box that serves as both a water trap and adds structure the bow sections. It incorporates overboard drains and the articulation track. The complete system is highly advanced and innovative.

FOUR - INVENTORY INSPECTION

1 -Standing Rigging.
The stainless steel rigging used on the H-30 is of the highest quality available. Dyform 1X19 wire is a high tech, very low stretch, flexible cable. Selection of Dyform wire was primarily for its durability, strength and longevity during raising and lowering of the mast. Dyform has approximately 35% less stretch and 30% more strength, than equivalent 1X19 wire. You will have the following rigging, including turn buckles.
(1) Headstay
(2) Upper Shrouds
(2) Intermediate Shrouds
(2) Lower Shrouds

2 - Running Rigging
Running rigging including the halyards are Technora, Spectra or Ultra low stretch lines. Halyards, Jib sheets, Runners, Backstay and Vang doubler use only Technora or Spectra for their resistance to stretch and durability. Secondary and control lines utilize Ultra low stretch line for ease of handling. The following lines are included in the H-30 package.
(1) Spinnaker Halyard (1) Asymmetrical Tack Line
(2) Jib Halyards (2) Jib Lead Control lines and shockcord returns.
(1) Main Halyard (1) Dual ended Main Traveler Control
(2) Jib Sheets (1) Dual ended Backstay Control
(1) Mainsheet (1) Cunningham Assembly
(2) Spinnaker Sheets (1) Bow Pole Retriever Line
(1) Boom Vang Doubler (1) Bow Pole Extender Line with Doubler
(1) Boom Vang Control Line (1) Bow Pole Articulator (port) with Doubler
(1) Out Haul Assembly (1) Bow Pole Articulator (starboard) with Doubler
(2) Running Back Stays (1) Backstay Doubler
(2) Runner Sheets (1) Backstay Cascade

3 - Deck Hardware
All hardware has been selected for it's reputation for high quality and it's ability to perform it's job efficiently. All hardware carries exceptional warranties. Your inventory of hardware includes the following extensive list.
(2) Harken Primary Winches (2) Jib Lead Tracks w/ Adjustable Cars
(2) Harken Secondary Winches (2) Genoa Tracks w/ Adjustable Cars
(2) Harken Runner Winches (1) Main Traveler Track w/ Adjustable Car
(4) Halyard Blocks (2) Halyard Deck Organizers
(2) Runner Blocks (2) Spinnaker Sheet Turning Blocks
(2) Runner Fairlead Blocks (2) Spinnaker Sheet Forward Blocks
(1 set) Port/Starboard Traveler Blocks (1 set) Port/Starboard Backstay Blocks
(8) Cam Cleats
4 - Standard Equipment
Bow Pulpit V-Deck Hatch
Port/Starboard Stern Pulpits Companionway Sliding Hatch
Tapered Stanchions w/Brace Companionway Drop Board
Upper and Lower Lifelines Keel Lift Deck Hatch
Port/Starboard Pad Eyes Keel Lift Assembly
Electrical Panel Fiberglass Keel Clamshells
Bow and Stern Running Lights Shipping Cradle
Interior Light Carbon Fiber Bow Pole
Settee Stowage Hatches Carbon Fiber Mast and Backstay Whip
5 Floor Boards Carbon Fiber Rudder
Hiking Stick Aluminum Boom
5 - Notes

FIVE - PREPARATION PRIOR to MAST RAISING
After unloading the mast from the boat place it on a couple of saw horses. You may want to wipe down the mast to remove any road grime during shipping. During inspection you will find cast aluminum mast step, boom and boom vang attachments and multi-colored tracers that will be used for pulling the halyards through the mast.
There should be a total of (5) five tracers; one main, one spinnaker, two genoa and one electrical. Leave each one secured for the moment.
Tools and other items needed are; pliers, rigging tape, light machine oil, seizing wire, screw driver and small wire cutters.

1 - Installation of Spreaders
Unwrap spreaders and separate them into pairs. The longer spreaders are the lower set and the shorter one's are the upper set. There will be a total of (8) eight pins for the spreaders the longer pins for the lower pair and the shorter pins for the upper pair. There are also two spreader bars, the bigger one is for the lower spreaders.
The spreader bars will be the first parts to be installed. Both upper and lower bars have a flat center area, the ends bend up and aft. The flattened center will be hidden inside the mast and the spreaders will attach to the ends. When installing the spreader bars be sure the ends bend UP and BACK, install in the direction of the arrow on the spreader bar.
Installing the lower spreader bar (the larger of the two), look through lower slot in the mast and have someone pull hard on the two genoa halyard tracers to identify them. You want these two tracers to be in - front - of the spreader bar when installed. You may find it to be more convenient to insert a screw driver in the slot (under the genoa tracers) from the opposite side, to hold them up. Slide the spreader bar into the slot until the ends protrude equally on either side of the mast. Take care not to pinch the halyard tracers in the slot with the spreader bar.
Occasionally the spreader bars are a tight fit. Should this be the case, then lightly coat the flat section of the bar with your machine oil and reinsert. Never use a steel hammer directly on the spreader bar. Tap in using a hammer and wooden block or a rubber, wooden or plastic mallet. Follow these same steps for installing upper spreader bar.
Prior to attachment of the spreaders, check all tracers for freedom of movement.
Before pinning the spreaders do a dry fit first. The spreader assembly has been pre-fitted and drilled by the manufacturer and there is a definite port and starboard spreader. The end that fits against the mast is cut at an angle so it will seat evenly on the top and bottom edges. The shorter side of the spreader is the top. Assuring the spreaders are aligned you are free to install the pins. Repeat procedure for upper spreaders.
2 - Installation of Halyards.
Each of the (4) four halyards have their own tracer. The supplied halyards have an eye splice on one end to tie onto the tracer and then be pulled through the mast.
The two genoa halyards are a different color to differentiate between port and starboard, in most cases red and green. Once halyards have been run and after mast is up in the boat the port genoa halyard will be led through the port deck block, the deck organizer and the port cabin top stopper. The starboard genoa halyard will be led through the starboard (inside) deck block, the deck organizer and the inboard starboard cabin top stopper.
The masthead spinnaker halyard will exit out the starboard side of the mast. This halyard is of smaller diameter than the two genoa halyards and will be led through the starboard (outside) deck block, the deck organizer and through (outboard) starboard cabin top stopper.
You will find the main halyard to be without its own stopper. This is accurate. The Henderson 30 mast incorporates a halyard locking system at the masthead to reduce mast compression.
On inspection of the main halyard you will find a swaged ball approximately eight inches above the shackle. It is this ball that will lock into the mechanism at the masthead. You should practice locking and unlocking the main halyard prior to mast raising, it is useful for all your crew to understand the operation of this lock.
For example, while the mast is laying on the saw horses have one of your crew raise the main halyard. When the halyard shackle nears the masthead you hold onto the shackle. Look into the slot at the masthead from the front of the mast while halyard is being pulled up slowly (still holding onto shackle), until you see the locking ball appear over the sheeve. The ball then goes over first locking claw you will hear a light click...STOP. This first click is engagement of the locking mechanism. Now continue to pull up on the halyard, you will here a second click as it goes over the second jaw, this is the release and the halyard can now be lowered, the ball passes behind the lock. If you heard a double click, then you have gone past the lock and into the release mechanism. Lower the halyard down a foot and redo procedure more slowly.
Having the convenience of being able to While under sail, always release the
locking mechanism while heading into the wind with the main cunningham, boom vang, outhaul and main sheet released. If sailing into your slip or dock, it is advisable to have the halyard out of the lock and the main lowers slightly.

3 - Installation of Standing Rigging and Runners
Uncoil all rigging and lay on ground beside mast. Remove all pins in the turnbuckles. Unscrew the turnbuckles by turning the barrels until the ends of the lower and upper studs are equal distance from the center bar of the barrel, this is to allow maximum adjustment of the turnbuckle assembly.
Upper end fittings on standing rigging are called "T-Ball" fittings. Installation is quite easy. Taking upper shrouds first, turn the T-Ball needs to be ninety degrees to it's final working position, insert the T into the slot and twist one quarter turn. Included with the rigging are assorted black rubber stoppers. These will be inserted into the slot above T-Ball and will stop the shroud from coming out of mast during raising and lowering.
This same procedure is followed for intermediate and lower shrouds as well as synthetic runners. The five large stoppers are for the Forestay, Upper and Lower shrouds, the 4 small ones for the Intermediate shrouds and Runners.

4 - Spreader Tip Procedure
Inspection of the spreader tips will show one notch with two small holes in the upper spreaders and two notches with three small holes in the lower spreaders. The notches allow space for the rigging and the small holes allow seizing wire to pass through enabling the tying of the shrouds into the spreader tips.
Place the upper shroud in the notch in the top spreader. Cut about 18 inches of small seizing wire and pass through one of the small holes. Go around shroud and back through the opposite small hole. Repeat this until you are unable to pass the seizing wire through the small holes. It will take at least two to three passes to fill up the holes. Take the two ends of the seizing wire and twist together until twisted wires are approximately 3/4's
inch long. Cut off loose wire ends.
Now pass the upper shroud in the forward notch on the lower spreader and the intermediate shroud in the aft notch. You will need at least 24 inches of seizing wire for the lower spreader. Pass through the center small hole and go around the upper shroud and pass through the opposite outer hole. Go around the upper shroud once more, pass through the center hole. Then go around the intermediate shroud and pass through the opposite outer hole. Repeat this until you cannot pass the seizing wire through the small holes. Twist together ends and cut off loose wire.
When seizing spreader tips always try to keep seizing wire tight. Loose seizing is not acceptable and could be potentially dangerous.
Stretchy rigging tape has been found best when taping spreader tips. Be sure tape covers all seizing wire, spreader tip, and in particular, seizing wire just inside shrouds.
5 - Installation of Backstay Whip
Included with your mast package is a tapered, solid fiberglass batten with two holes drilled on one end and a ring seized on the other. The non tapered end with the two holes will match the two holes located in the masthead crane. One of the holes will be for a through bolt, the other a self tapping screw.
Once the whip is installed, the synthetic backstay must be passed through ring on batten and fastened onto pin at aft end of masthead crane. You will notice that your synthetic backstay will have a chafing thimble spliced into each end. Remove one thimble, you may need a screw driver, then pass backstay through whip ring, reinstall thimble and attach to the masthead crane using the pin provided.

6 - Notes

SIX - INSTALLATION OF LOOSE DECK HARDWARE

1 - Halyard Blocks
There are (4) four halyard blocks included with the H-30's rigging package. These blocks will attach to the eye straps located on deck opposite of the molded mast partners. Port side blocks are for the main and genoa halyards. Starboard blocks are for the asymmetrical spinnaker and genoa halyards.

2 - Spinnaker Sheet Blocks
You have two sets of spinnaker sheet blocks. One pair will be used as turning blocks while the other set will be used as forward leads. On deck you will find and eye strap approximately thirty inches forward of the stern pulpit. The heavier duty blocks (Harken Black Magic similar to the runner turning blocks) will fasten to these eye straps on both sides of the boat.
The lighter duty blocks (ratchet type) will shackle onto the aft bail on the stanchion base just forward of the turning blocks. The spinnaker sheet will lead between the stanchion and its support leg.

3 - Runner Blocks
There are three sets of blocks to handle the runners. First, are the 75mm Black Magic Airblocks, they attach to the end of the running backstays that are attached to the mast.
Second, are the 57mm Black Magic foot blocks, they attach to the port and starboard chain plates on the transom of the H-30. The third set of blocks are already installed and are located on the forward end of the molded foot braces in the cockpit.

4 - Boom Vang Assembly
The boom vang assembly consists of a twist shackle with wire block, doubler line, triple block with becket, a stacked 6:1 ratchet block/cam cleat assembly, and control line.
One end of the doubler line will attach to the upper shackle on toggle fitting at the aft face of mast. The stacked 6:1 ratchet block and cam cleat assembly will fasten to the second (lower) shackle at same location.

5 - Lifelines
The H-30 includes both upper and lower lifelines. The upper lifeline is vinyl covered and has a turnbuckle adjustment at the aft end. The lower set is an uncovered 1X19 wire. The
lower lifelines do not have turnbuckles, instead they are to be tied into the aft pulpits. The reason for this is to allow adjustment for crew comfort while hiking on the weather rail.
Installation of upper lifelines will require removing turnbuckle barrel and passing swage fitting through each stanchion head, starting at the bow. Reinstall turnbuckle assembly and fasten to stern rail.
One end of the lower lifelines will have a bold eye swaged on. This eye will unscrew, counter clockwise. Remove the eye and pass the swage fitting through hole in middle of stanchions. Screw the eye back onto the swage fitting and tie onto welded bail on stern rail.
Both forward ends of lifelines will have their own welded bails on the bow pulpit.

6 - Miscellaneous
The forward end of the bow pole has a U-bolt installed. There is an additional
2 and 1/4 inch block that will attach to this U-bolt. This will be used for the asymmetrical tack line.
In your deck gear package you will find two wire blocks, one small and one large. The larger of the two will fasten to the underside of boom and be used for the boom vang doubler. The smaller block will attach to lower end of the backstay to pass the doubler through.

7 - Notes

SEVEN - RAISING the MAST

1 - Preparation
The unique design of the H-30 includes the ability to remove the cabin top hatch eliminating the need for a costly crane or outside assistance while raising your mast. Simply put, a line is attached to the aft face of the mast butt and led through the mast step to a cabin top winch. The butt is ground down to step. A halyard is taken forward to the stem fitting. The mast is pushed up until halyard becomes effective, the mast is then cranked up into position. The opening in the cabin top allows mast to guide itself naturally.
Prior to raising mast it is suggested to unscrew standing rigging turnbuckles at least 3/4's open. Remove all cotter pins. If you have a Windex or other masthead instruments now is the time to install them.
You will need an adjustable wrench, screw driver, needle nose pliers, rigging tape, padded cushion, old beach towel. and three of your crew, two that grind winches.
Although this procedure is simple, the loads involved are huge. It is advisable to double check every fitting and line.

2 - Mast Raising Steps
Remove the cabin top deck hatch and companionway slider, then place a wooden support across the two stern rails and lash in place.
Walk mast aft until butt of mast can be pushed into interior of boat. The mast will be adequately supported by the wooden support.
Take a jib sheet and pass through pad eye at base of mast (bottom - up). Take two turns around the base of the mast and tie back on itself so the turns around the mast are tight. Take the end of jib sheet and pass under the aft bolt in mast step in an aft direction. Lead to port side, cabin top, halyard winch.
Take a firm padded cushion and lay across companionway entrance. Wrap the lower portion of mast with bath towel. The bath towel will keep keel cage, clamshells and deck edge from scratching mast during the raising procedure.
Crank down the butt of the mast until it is tight to mast step. While cranking down butt the lower section of the mast will have to be guided around keel cage and clamshells. Your helpers will need to have the mast as far to the starboard side of cockpit as companionway opening will allow.
Take the other jib sheet and fasten to mast support on trailer and tie bowline on other end. Fasten masthead spinnaker halyard to jib sheet bowline and tension.
Have your helpers guide the mast up as the spinnaker halyard is cranked in taking most of the load. Most crews will try and balance the mast while raising, thus making it very difficult. When mast is approximately (45) forty five degrees raised, allow mast to be guided by the deck opening. There is no balance required.
Once the mast is vertical, check below to see if mast butt has seated into mast step. If not then simply raise mast vertically and seat mast butt.
Pin the Headstay and Uppers. This will secure the mast until the remaining rigging can be fastened.

3 - Attachment of Standing Rigging

The upper shroud (forward chain plate) should have pin inserted front to aft.
Intermediate shrouds (aft chain plate - outboard hole) should have pins inserted aft to front.
Lower shrouds (aft chain plate - inboard hole) should have pins inserted aft to front.
Split pins will now be hidden within the chain plates reducing the risk of potential snagging and chafe.

4 - Under Deck Mast Retainer
Beside the mast on the port side (under deck) you will find a high field lever and starboard side an eye strap with line attached. These are used for locking the mast into the deck partners.
In front and around the mast you should place some hard rubber padding to prevent the mast bearing only on the bottom edge of the partners. We have found that using a product such as SPARTIGHT, available through West Marine, will not only protect the deck and the mast from damage but will help to waterproof the opening.
If using this product your must be sure to wax all surfaces around the deck and under the V hatch to prevent the product bonding the V hatch to the deck. Take time building the dams under the opening and in the V hatch drain channels to prevent this. When you think you have it ready, check for integrity by pouring water in and checking for leaks around the mast and in the drain channels. I cannot stress this enough, if it fails the clean up job is horrendous, believe me I have been there. After all this I would highly recommend the use a this or similar product.
The lever has an adjustable hook. Release the lever, pass the line from the eye strap around the back of the mast, around the hook and back to the eye strap. Repeat this several times and tie off temporarily. Engage lever. There maybe some adjustment needed to get the right tension, but be sure mast is secured and lever is locked into position.

5 - Tuff Luff Installation
Your owners package will include instructions for installing your Tuff Luff. The Tuff Luff comes pre-measured and precut and is ready for installation. It is recommended not to shorten your foil.
We have found it to be much easier installing the foil with the mast up and running backstays tensioned.

6 - Notes

EIGHT - TUNING the RIG

1 - Preparation
Loosen both runners and backstay assemblies so there is no tension on those controls. Hand tighten lateral rigging removing all slack. Do any minor adjustments needed to get aft slot of mainsail track straight.
Take a steel tape measure and fasten to both jib halyards. Have someone in cockpit raise both halyards at once and tension both tightly. The reason for using both halyards is to keep the tape measure as close to centerline of the mast as possible. Measure to port and starboard chain plate. You want chain plate measurements to be identical.
Let's say you are one quarter inch longer on the port side. You will need to tighten about three turns (port side) to make up the one quarter inch. Re-measure both sides after any adjustments are made.
After removing all slack in lateral rigging.., mast is equal to chain plates.., and the mainsail luff groove is arrow straight...you can proceed with the following.

2 - Suggested Rake and Tension
We have found the most convenient method of measuring the rake is on the headfoil. If the head foil is installed prior to raising the mast, then measure 40' from the bottom of the forestay T-Ball (where the Dyform wire enters the T-ball) and mark the headfoil. You must ensure that the headfoil is installed with no slack or the if is pushed up against the T-Ball. You can now measure from this mark to the center of the pin in the tack fitting at your convenience. If the headfoil is being installed with the mast up for the first time, you will have to send a crew member up. NEVER SEND A MAN ALLOFT WITH THE BOAT ON THE TRAILER (If the keel is up the boat is unstable in this condition) The suggested rake measured from the bottom of the T-Ball to the center line of the headstay pin on the tack fitting is 38' 5".
The rake measurement and rig tensions we provide here should give you fast, 'out of the box' settings. These tensions are however dependent on your local conditions and the 'cut' of sails used on your boat. Glenn Henderson, Doug Fisher or your own sailmaker will be glad to assist you with more individual settings.
On the large (standard) Loos Gauge you want the following numbers;
Upper Shrouds 41
Intermediates 20
Lowers 35
If you sail in a predominantly light wind area (3 - 7 knots wind) you may want to loosen the headstay three turns (without adjusting the lateral rigging). This will accomplish two things; 1) increase rake for more helm; 2) slightly loosen lateral rigging and increases mast bend for a flatter mainsail shape. Both increasing performance in light air.
However, for heavy air sailing (15 - 20 knots wind) you will want to tighten the headstay three turns. This will result in less helm pressure and will tighten the rig slightly. Both will increase performance in heavy air. Always keep a record where your headstay is positioned so you can go back to your normal suggested setting.

3 - Tensioning Procedure
Before proceeding, check again;
1 ) Do you have the mast laterally equal in the boat?
2) Has all slack been taken up on the shrouds?
3) Is the luff slot of mast straight?
Beginning with the upper shrouds tighten both sides six turns. Tighten intermediates five turns. Tighten lowers three turns. Measure to chain plates and check for lateral equality. If mast is not perfectly equal, then adjust upper shrouds only, for corrections. Readjust intermediates and lowers to remove any "S'S" in mast slot.
Check your shroud tensions and adjust if necessary.
You may need to constantly check the mast for any lateral corrections, as well as, having to do minor adjustments in keeping the luff slot straight.

4 - Notes

NINE - RUNNING RIGGING INSTALLATION

1 - Asymmetrical Tack Line
Your asymmetrical tack line will have a snap shackle attached to one end. Take opposite end and lead through the swivel block located on outboard end of bow pole, go through stem head tack fitting (starboard side of headstay) onto fairlead by starboard shrouds, through second fairlead and onto deck block between the starboard side cam cleats.
There are two cam cleats for the asymmetrical tack line. Use both when sailing with spinnaker up!

2 - Genoa Lead Controls
It will be easier to reeve the line starting with starboard cam cleat first. Go through the cam cleat assembly (aft-fwd) and lead through the bottom sheave located on the forward end of the track (inboard-out). Now through the outboard sheave on jib car assembly (bottom-up), forward to top sheave on track (outboard-in), aft to inner sheave on car (top-down), then to becket and tie off.
Secure shockcord car return from the eye strap in front of the primary winch to the tab on the back of the genoa car.
Repeat procedure for port side genoa lead control.

3 - Main Traveler Control
The main traveler control is one continuous line. Tie one end to port becket located on main traveler car assembly. Lead to aft block on cockpit wall (top-down), back to sheave on traveler assembly (aft-forward), onto forward block on cockpit wall (bottom-up), through cam cleat assembly. Take this same end to the starboard side and lead through cam cleat assembly (top-down), onto forward block (top-down), to sheave on traveler car (forward-aft), back to aft block (bottom-up), and tie into becket on the traveler car.

4 - Mainsheet System
The mainsheet system on the H-30 is the Harken patented 6:1 to 12:1 auto shift. Read and follow their instructions explicitly. The system comes already assembled with a light line showing how the mainsheet should be reeved. We suggest that you attach the system in its entirety to the boom and traveler car prior to removing their light line. This will enable you to see how the system will operate.
5 - Runner Controls
The runner sheets are lines that will be led to the runner winches which control the running back tension and in turn the headstay tension.
One end of each runner sheet has an eye splice. These will fasten on the shackle that attaches to the center chain plate located on transom. The tail of the line will then lead through the Airblock on the running backstay, down to the runner fairlead block (which will be fastened to the outer chain plate), through the molded foot brace and cheek at forward end. Repeat procedure for other runner sheet.

6 - Backstay Assembly
The backstay assembly includes backstay, doubler and control line. The lower end of the backstay will have a small wire block attached. The doubler has an eye spliced in both ends. Pass one end through the two thimbles of the runner sheets that are attached to the shackle on the center transom chainplate and then through the eye in the other end of itself. This forms a type of slip knot that can be pulled tight and helps to keep the runner sheet thimbles side be side. When the runner sheets are pointing to port and starboard, the doubler should emerge from the center. Now lead the free end of the doubler through the wire block and attach the triple block of the purchase system.
Beginning on the port side of the cockpit (the backstay cleat is molded into the foot brace aft of the traveler), reeve line through thru-deck block and pull aft through foot brace. Lead through the deck mounted cheek block, onto larger block on the pad eye on the port side of the center chain plate, up to triple block on second cascade, down to double block mounted in front of backstay chain plate, up to triple block, down to deck double block, up to last sheave in triple block, down to block on pad eye on the starboard side of the center chainplate, through the cheek block and forward through the starboard foot brace and thru-deck block.
The backstay control line is adjustable from both sides of the cockpit.

7 - Cunningham Assembly
The cunningham assembly should arrive complete and will attach to the welded eye on the boom vang toggle bolt.

8 - Boom Vang Assembly
The boom vang assembly should also arrive complete, but not attached. On the aft face of mast just above cabin you will find a toggle assembly with two shackles attached. The upper shackle is for the doubler and the lower is for the cam cleat assembly. The large wire block with twist shackle will attach to the bail on underside of boom.
Once installed the doubler line is on top with the block, tackle and cam cleat assembly
underneath.

9 - Notes

TEN - READY to LAUNCH

The H-30 can be set up in two ways for trailering, Hoist Launch or Ramp Launch. As their names signify the difference is how the boat is set up and bunked on the trailer.
The hoist launch mode allows the boat to be totally closed and hatches secured. Ramp launch will have the H-30 sitting lower on the trailer, however, the top of the keel will protrude above cabin. This will leave the boat less secured and require a canvas cover to keep rain and weather out.

1 - Hoist Launch
Many sailing clubs have hoist capabilities to launch larger, dry sailed boat's. In part due to the J-24. The H-30 is a new breed of larger, faster and much lighter boat than anything of the past. Actual weight is between 3800 and 3900 pounds. This weight includes a couple of sails, tools, engine, five gallons of fuel, safety gear, all running gear and minimal stores.

Preparation and Procedure
There are two diamond pad eyes located on the aft side of the athwart ship bulkhead right behind the keel. The optional Dual Lifting Strap will attach to these two pad eyes.
The keel, in its partially lifted position, raises the center of gravity and without use of a forward balance line the boat will be bow heavy when lifted. To offset this imbalance you will need a line tied to the trailering eye on the bow at one end and the upper shackle of the dual lifting strap at the other. With slight tension on the lifting strap, pull the shackle forward until straps are right behind cabin top V hatch. This will ensure a slight bow down lift which is ideal. Hoisting the boat with the bow down (approximately 10 degrees) will keep your mast, spreaders and rigging from becoming damaged by the hoist arm.

Notes
1) Whom ever is running the hoist -always look up- during raising and lowering, ensuring that the spreaders do not become entangled with hoist arm.
2) Never allow someone on board or below the boat, while lifting the boat with a hoist.
3) It good practice to have keel clamshells locked into place during launching.

2 - Ramp Launch
Ramp launching the H-30 is quick, easy and eliminates the need for a crane or outside professional assistance. One of our owner's at Key West Raceweek had his boat sitting on a trailer in 15 minutes while the rest of the owner's were waiting until the next day to retrieve their boat's.
Trailer maintenance is increased , ie., brakes, wheel bearings, etc., will need to be maintained and rinsed thoroughly after all salt water launches.

Preparation and Procedure
Prior to ramp launching make sure all tie downs and straps are removed. Always have bow and stern lines attached and ready for immediate use.
Back the trailer into the water until boat is just floating. Have your crew pull/push the boat off the trailer. Keep the boat as straight as possible, ensuring that opening in aft trailer cradles aligns with keel and will allow the boat to float off without damage to the keel.
Provided the launching area has depth of water, you may install the rudder and lower the keel.

Notes
1) Never launch or retrieve the boat with rudder installed.
2) Always have keel clamshells locked into place during launching.

ELEVEN - LOWERING the KEEL

Always use extreme caution when lowering and raising the keel. The keel is 1750 pounds of solid lead and can cause severe damage if the lifting mechanism is not operated and maintained properly.

1 - Preparation and Assembly
Your keel lifting assembly includes these parts; 1) Two aluminum struts, 2) Fiberglass Strut Cap, 3) Worm gear winch with fiberglass base, 4) Lifting strap with shackle, 5) Standard V hatch with access port, 6) Lifting V hatch (ramp launch mode only).
With the boat in the Hoist Launch mode all but the lifting V hatch will be required. The two aluminum struts will be cut to the correct length for either ramp or hoist launch.

2 - Procedure
Hoist launch mode
The floor boards either side of the keel have a molded hole in them. These holes are to locate the lower end of the keel struts. Place one strut into each hole. Install the fiberglass strut cap (This is slightly triangular in shape, the pointed side goes forward). Unlock the slide bolts under deck and remove companionway, sliding hatch.
Unscrew the inspection port in the standard V hatch. Lift the V hatch and slide the keel struts with keel strut cap under. Position the cap so the round raised portion aligns with the inspection port. Replace the V hatch and lock the slide bolts. The Strut cap should now be protruding through the inspection hatch.
The worm gear winch is mounted onto a fiberglass base. Prior to positioning you will notice that the strut cap has a location pin and a locking bolt. Remove the bolt and align the worm gear winch base on the location pin. Reinstall the bolt and tighten securely.
Attach the lifting strap on to the Wichard eye on top of the keel top plate with the shackle. Tension the lifting strap. Efficiency will dictate to have two crew members below, one either side of the keel with the required tools to remove keel clamshells. Raise the keel approximately one inch and have crew members remove the keel clamshells.
Lower the keel into position.

Ramp Launch Mode
When in ramp launch mode you must use the Lifting V hatch instead of the regular V Hatch. The keel struts are longer and are passed through the holes in the lifting V hatch, once the strut cap is installed the two struts are sprung into the two holes in the floor boards. The struts and the lifting V hatch must be further secured by tying the struts forward to the mast.
Take care to guide the keel top plate through the whole in the lifting V Hatch when lowering and raising the keel.
Follow all other procedures in this section and adhere to the warnings in the notes section.

3 - Securing
The keel must be bolted into place once lowered. In each corner of the keel top plate there is a hole. There are four 3/8" bolts that must be inserted and tightened. These bolts run into glassed in nuts in the keel trunk, they should be free enough to hand tighten the whole way down and be snugged up using a wrench. It is recommended that an anti-seize paste be applied occasionally to ensure cold welding does not occur. If the bolts become tight please consult the manufacturer before damage further damage can occur.

4 - Notes
A) When lowering or raising the keel - NEVER PUT YOUR HANDS
BETWEEN THE KEEL PLATE AND KEEL TRUNK!
B) Should the keel need guidance while lowering into position, then do so by handling the keel plate, only!
C) In most cases the factory supplied, keel lifting strap will be a spectra line. This keel lift line has approximately 9500 pounds breaking strength. If the line is showing the fuzzies - CHANGE IT! Always be on the lookout for chafe and wear.
D.
A. Always have floor boards installed when raising and lowering keel.
E) Always keep the winch properly greased and lubricated.

TWELVE - RAISING the KEEL
1 - Preparation
Raising of the keel should always be done at rest or at the dock...in smooth water. Additionally, only persons involved in the keel raising should be on the boat. In a rough basin or with the crew walking around boat during raising of keel, it is possible to have keel damage.
Prior to setting up keel lift assembly have keel shims and fasteners down below and ready to install.
Preparation for raising the keel is the same procedure as mentioned in Preparation and Assembly, Section Eleven. The only difference is you have a plastic, split keel trunk insert. This insert is put into place, in the keel top plate recess in the top of the keel trunk, once the keel cage has cleared the trunk and keel has been raised about six inches more.
The split centering piece has two uses; 1) centering the keel in the keel trunk during raising, and, 2) as a bumper of sorts to eliminate keel damage. Once keel has been raised enough, install the split centering piece and secure with the keel top plate fasteners.

2 - Winch Grinders Only
The H-30 comes with a worm gear winch assembly, which is a single purchase system attached to the keel. Since every boat crew has at least one or two winch grinders it is best to have them be the one's to crank the keel up. One person can do it but it is better to have them trade off. A key to making it easier...have a can of WD-40, or an equivalent, and occasionally spray the winch for smoother operation.

3 - Securing the Keel Clamshells.
After the keel has been raised to its fullest, slide keel clamshells alongside the keel and fasten together. Keel clamshells do not need to be wrenched down tight. The fasteners do, however, need to be securely snugged.
With clamshells in place lower the keel down until there is no load on keel lift assembly. Be sure to guide the clamshells into the recess in the top of the keel trunk.

4 - Notes

THIRTEEN - OPERATION of the VARA ASSEMBLY
The VARA System on the H-30 is highly sophisticated and once you learn its operation you will be able to increase your boat speed and improve the balance of your boat in all conditions. The designer and builder have applied for a patent.

1 - Vertical Adjustment
The upper third of the rudder blade has a constant section with the lower two thirds showing tapering to the tip. You are able to raise the blade 18 to 24 inches and still have the blade fit snugly in it's enclosure. Extra vertical adjustment can be accomplished using the Rudder Brake.
The Rudder Brake is hidden within the base of the tiller. Internally you will find a webbing strap with an adjustable line. Raising the blade beyond its constant shape will require usage of the brake. Before hauling out the boat it is advisable to remove the blade entirely.
Never push blade down with brake on!

2 - Adjusting Tip Sweep
The VARA System also includes a way for you to change "tip sweep". Tip sweep is the ability to modify leading edge attack that directly affects balance of the helm. Looking at extremes, tip aft will increase helm load and make the tiller seem heavy handed. Tip forward reduces helm load making the tiller very light to the feel.
Tip sweep control is done at the tiller base. There are four fasteners located within elongated holes on top of tiller head base. Changing sweep will require each fastener to be loosened allowing tiller base to slide easily.
Increasing sweep requires tiller head to slide - FORWARD (heavy helm).
Reducing sweep requires tiller head to slide - AFT (lighter helm).
The H-30 is usually shipped with the tiller head slid aft. This position gives you the lightest feel to the helm. There are many skippers that like a little more feel. Should this be the case, then adjust tiller head forward until helm satisfies personal requirements.

3 - Brake System
The tiller head assembly includes an internal and adjustable braking system. With rudder fully deployed (down) it will not be necessary to use the braking system. The brake system will be needed anytime the rudder blade is raised more than 18 to 24 inches.
A unique feature of this system is the ability to raise the rudder at dockside and not have the rudder in the water, without having to completely remove the rudder. Raise rudder to preferred height and pull cord of brake system. This will hold the rudder up at your preferred setting.
Never trailer boat with the rudder installed.

4 - Notes

FOURTEEN - ENGINE OPERATION

1 - Raising and Lowering the Engine
The engine installation in the H-30 is highly engineered for ease of operation. Simplistic elegance in its execution, a system designed for reduced cost and reduction of overall weight. Although crude variations have been attempted in the past, the CRO Unit in the H-30 is leaps ahead of any others in its overall operation.
Access to the engine is through the bridge deck hatch at the forward end of the cockpit. Simply open deck hatch by pushing the button on the latch. At the forward face of containment unit you will find a cord which runs through a cam cleat. Un-cleat cord and lower engine down until the engine's sliding mechanism is resting on interior ledge. The engine is now ready for operation.
At end of engine operation simply pull on cord raising engine up. There are stops at the top of sliding tracks, so be sure that engine is snug to these stops. You may want to check that there is no weed or other obstructions preventing the bottom plate from fully closing. That's it! Quick, simple and very effective.

2 - Gear Shift and Throttle Controls
Your H-30 has installed the new Spinlock Shift/Throttle control, which is operated with a standard winch handle. The benefits of this system are the ability to remove the handle so lines and sheets do not become entangled.
For convenience it is suggested to use a "lock-in" handle during operation. Inserting winch handle allows dual mode operation; 1) ability to shift into forward, neutral and reverse, with throttle. 2) throttle only operation.
The throttle control should be in neutral (The small tick on the center circle should be at the top), insert the winch handle. With the winch handle slightly inserted, the controls will have gear and throttle. In neutral position, push winch handle into the mechanism which will bypass the gears and give you throttle only. The throttle must be in neutral or no gear mode to start the engine. After the engine has warmed up, bring the winch handle back to neutral position and allow winch handle to "pop out". This will engage "gear mode" for forward or reverse gears. You are now ready to start.

3 - Starting the Engine
Your engine has an electric start that has both a "quick choke" and "blower ventilation" automatically wired into it. When the ignition is turned on, the blower will automatically start. Check the vent on the mainsheet pedestal to ensure you have current.
Prior to starting the engine lower the unit into the water. Pump the fuel ball to pressurize the fuel. Insert a winch handle and go to " no gear mode", turn the handle to about 45 deg. forward. Turn the ignition key and start engine.
Should the engine not start up immediately, then try "quick choke". The ignition key also operates the "quick choke". Turn the key to the "on" position and press the key "down" twice. Start the engine. Do not hold switch down too long or flooding will occur. Remember...the system is for "quick choke" operation.

4 - Notes
-A- Prior to starting the engine always have lines secured on the boat and not dragging overboard.
-B- Area's with lots of sea weed and prior to engine shut off, always look down into CRO Unit making sure no sea weed has become entangled with lower struts. If necessary reverse the boat to clear weeds, then raise and secure engine.
-C- At the dock when idling the engine it is suggested to open bridge deck hatch to enhance ventilation.
-D- Please read engine Owner's Manual carefully before operation.
-E- Replace spark plugs after break in.
-F- Dip sticking your fuel tank. Checking the quantity of fuel will require a wooden dowel four feet long and one quarter inch in diameter. At one end of stick mark bands on stick. The first, for one gallon, 2" from the end. The rest of the marks should be at 5/8" intervals for each gallon more. At three quarters throttle your engine will burn about one gallon per hour (after break in).

FIFTEEN - TRAILERING and ROAD TIPS

1 - Securing the H-30
Properly securing your H-30 for road trips is the most important aspect of ownership for your safety and the safety of others. The following suggestions are minimum recommendations. You should do everything possible, in reducing damage to the boat, you and your gear.
The bow eye shall be fastened into the trailer winch and cranked down firmly. No not drag the boat forward on the cradles using the bow eye. It is recommended to secure the hull with two ratchet straps. The ratchet straps should be on or near the trailer cradles with the ends secured to trailer...not the cradles.
For all road trips, spreaders and standing rigging should be removed from mast.
The mast should be supported as much as possible, it's larger for and aft dimension should be vertical. As a minimum it should be supported at the forward trailer crutch, on a wooden beam spaning the stern rails and in the center above the coach roof. Pad all support area's.

2 - Suggested Gear Placement
Everyone has their own preferences on how to secure and position certain gear for traveling. We recommend that storage of the boom be on deck. Many would prefer to store the boom in the interior of the boat. Should you want interior storage, then be sure boom is secured and not loose while trailering! Sudden stops may create a boom missile.
Your rudder is the most important piece of gear and the easiest to be damaged or damage other things. The optional Padded Rudder Bag is an excellent piece of gear for the protection of your rudder.
Always store your rudder on a flat surface.
One of the few places to store rudder flat is the V-berth area. With rudder in V-berth it is suggested to stack your spinnakers around rudder for padding and immobility.
Heavy gear such as tools, anchor and chain, etc., should be stored inside settee area's or on the floor either side of the keel trunk.
During storage of gear always keep in mind the possibility of quick and sudden stops and what gear will do in this situation.
3 - Precautionary Tips
Before taking road trips eliminate Bangers, Hangers and Scratchers. These include but are not limited to deck halyard blocks, runner and backstay assemblies, spinnaker sheet blocks, and any other loose gear on deck or interior of boat.
Tie and secure all loose items.
When you have completed tying and securing all gear...do the rattle test. Standing on the ground, grab the trailer cradles and shake the boat and trailer hard. There should be NO SOUND except for trailer squeaks. If you hear rattles, pinpoint and secure.

4 - Notes

SIXTEEN - WARRANTY'S

1 - Builder - SOCA Sailboats, Ltd.

2 - Hardware - Harken, USA
What is Covered? - The warranty covers defects in materials or workmanship.
Who is Covered? - The original purchaser.
For How Long? - Harken Products are warranted for 5 years from the date of purchase, except for winches which are warrantied for 3 years.
What Harken will do - Harken will provide technical support by telephone, fax or letter to help diagnose a problem. Harken will, at its option, repair, replace, or give credit for defective products returned to Harken at your expense, within the warranty period.
What is Not Covered - This warranty does not cover any product that was: improperly installed; improperly maintained; used in any application for which it was not intended; used under load conditions exceeding the rating; or subject to misuse, negligence, accident, or unauthorized modification or repair.
How to get Service - Contact Harken directly or your Harken dealer to arrange for warranty assistance. They will need, in writing, your name and address, date of purchase, type of boat, product involved, application, explanation of defect, and conditions under which the product was used.

3 - Engine
PLEASE READ YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL CAREFULLY!
Routine maintenance and care of your outboard is YOUR responsibility.
A copy of your engine's ONE YEAR Limited Warranty is found at the end of your Owner's Manual.
If repairs are necessary during the warranty period, they must be made by an authorized Johnson or Evinrude dealer.

4 - Trailer
If you purchased the optional trailer, please read all information in the Owner's Package. The package contains a Certificate of Origin for registering your new trailer.
Additionally, you will find a Customer Check list and Maintenance guide, Limited 2 Year Warranty form, a Guide to Ownership and Operation, information on Wheel Hub lubrication and Disc Brakes, and other useful information. Again, please read all carefully.

5 - Head Foil
The Tuff Luff headstay foil selected for the Henderson 30 is not only the world's most popular, but also the most dependable. You will find a warranty card enclosed with your Owner's package. Please fill out and mail back to the manufacturer.