Shop Made Through Dovetail Jig

Commercial adjustable through dovetail jigs are expensive. They're ridiculously expensive when you can make your own with some cut offs and about $25 worth of stuff from a hardware store. I spent more on the router bit than I did on the jig.

My jig is based on one from ShopNotes - Volume 8 - Issue 43 - January 1999. The article is very clear and the jig is surprisingly easy to make. You can purchase a copy by calling ShopNotes at 1-800-333-5854 M-F 8-5 CST. The cost of the copy is $6.00.

Important Notes:

  • The article calls for #12 machine screws. You can't substitute the more commonly available 1/4" machine screws. They are slightly too large and do not slide well between the metal parts of the jig no matter how much you yell at them. If you want to use the 1/4" then increase the thickness of the body piece by about 1/32". I couldn't find square 1/4" nuts, only the hexangonal kind, but they work fine. If you want to go with the original plan and use #12's, you can find them here.

  • You can get the 1/4-20 knobs much cheaper in the Lawn & Garden section - look for lawnmower parts. I got mine for $1.79 per pair.

  • All the springs have to do is push the hold bar back when you loosen the knobs so I didn't worry too much about getting the exact springs mentioned in the article. A cheap box assortment of springs yielded enough to get the job done. Where I used more than one spring I put a washer between them.


    I made a few changes:

  • I used the full 36" angle and bar stock (available in the Tool section of Home Depot) to make a jig that will dovetail panels up to 32" wide or drawers only 2" deep.

  • I used 1/2" thick quarter-sawn oak for the fingers rather than plastic.

  • The article calls for a 14 degree dovetail bit, but I chose an 8 degree bit from CMT (818.706.11) because the joint looks more hand cut and I could get one long enough to use on 1" thick panels.

  • The article calls for posterboard shims to adjust the tightness of the fit and I used pieces of veneer.

  • To set the table saw blade to the correct angle I put the bit in the router and used a bevel gauge.

  • The article recommends using a block of wood to set the distances to the stop blocks evenly. I found that using calipers is faster and just as accurate. You can also use calipers to set the distances between fingers for some interesting spacing options.